Village of Eze Travel Guide | The Gothic EarthSea of Riveria

The commune of Eze lies on the French Riviera in the most South Western corner of France.A thousand-year-old medieval village more than 400 meters above the Mediterranean Sea. A mountainous area between Nice and Monaco, Eze is split between its famous perched village and the ribbon settlement along the beach front that is called Eze-bord-de-mer or Eze-sur-mer.

A scatter scare cousin from the pompous Monaco and classy Nice.Its truly magical and this post comes with a disclaimer that it has no beaches,no casinos,no extravagance but keeps every other modernity in the closet. It’s like an eagle perched upon a cliff about 1400 ft above the Mediterranean, which in its heydays gave shelter from enemies. It feels like an excerpt from a children fantasy book with gothic structures, cobbled streets and mesmerizing views. This is our Perched heritage village Eze. The village has been consecutively occupied by Romans, Moors and Italians.Eze has smitten many artists, writers and philosophers such as Frederic Nietzsche, Stéphen Liégeard, Walt Disney, Lenny Kravitz and Angelina Jolie.

Getting there

The base destination for me was Nice. All information can be found in my previous post here. The best way to travel is by bus.The buses 82 and 112 go directly from Nice bus station (palace Garibaldi) to the upper village, which come alternately every one hour. Avoid the 12 o’ clock shuttle because incase you miss this bus you will have to wait for the driver’s lunch break.I personally found it very difficult to communicate. As french is the only language spoken in the region. So brush up your french incase you miss the bus like me. The frequency of buses is reduced post lunch.

The bus ride is the most scenic one through the Moyenne Corniche.The view from uphill is the most stunning view I have ever seen so far. An actual picture post card of the port town Nice and Mansions lining the hill roads. If only I could alight the bus to click those magnificent ocean lines….sigh!

Bits & Bobs

I went during the Easter holidays and it was seriously hot , I love the mediterranean weather. Always carry things to keep yourself hydrated like water and juice. Its is not such a steep climb as I could venture it with a four year old. A question about the Buggies/wheelchair could be a tricky one because inside the village there are a couple of steps to scamper. But the steps are broader and could be managed with a stroller from an observational point of view.There are couple of cafe and deli’s on the way but some may find it expensive. The average cost a salad/crepe ranges between 10-20 euros and the drinks separate. A minimum of four hours is fairly enough to do justice to this beautiful architectural village.

Top five things in Village of Eze

Fragonard l’Usine Laboratoire

At the base of the cliff is the old factory of Fragonard Perfumery. Even though the actual factories are in the french capital of perfumes Grasse. Here you will understand the art of perfume making in free guided tour and get a chance to sample some of the most magical floral and aromatic perfumes from the 16th century and evolving. Do make a stopover at the Fragonard boutique for some goodies. If I go by the tale that French had some classic ways of overpowering their body odour and perfume being the champion was evolved and hence till date French perfumes are the most celebrated around the world for it distinctive mysticism and aroma (Words of wisdom from an ardent worshipper)

Spices and Views

The first pit stop on the way to the village is the spice and soap stalls which have such plethora of colours and smells that it leaves you intoxicated for a while. You will find a whole range of spices and natural homemade rose soaps and you can help but buy a few pots and bars here and there. You can start seeing the vivid landscapes from this very point.There is lush greenery and few peaking mansions everywhere. I would highly recommend this stop from a photographer’s point of view.Spiral Ascent

Just close your eyes and time travel to ancient times. As you stumble through the cobbled streets, admire the towering castle spires, rest at the iron studded door, peep through the ornate windows and say your silent prayers at the 14th-century Chapelle de la Ste.-Croix and Baroque church Notre-Dame de l’Assomption. There are cafe and bars; shops selling soap,paintings,postcards,souvenirs and olive oil. There is no sign of any modernity. I wonder if J.K Rowling kept this village in mind to design Hogwarts. I was in no hurry and I had the curious case of angelic charm to answer. Every nook and corner was carefully inspected, if not admired by my sprouting toddler. Though quite frequented by tourist but you will never find it overcrowded and is always away from the din of the world below.

Avenue du Jardin Exotique & Le Chemin de Nietzsche/Nietzsche’s Path

At the summit of the village is the beautiful Avenue du Jardin Exotique which apart from several micro flora houses some of the rare varieties of cacti. The garden has an entry fee of 6 euros but every penny is worth it. This is the place you feel the breeze, you see the Mediterranean slashing below and the numerous white & red roofs of the beautiful villas. God has been generous to so many of us. You needn’t always need luxuries to enjoy certain extravagances.Sometimes you just need to feel the “I” within nature.With so much divinity at my disposal I am sure it transformed me into a weeping philosopher mode just as it did to the Profound philosopher Friedrich-Nietzsche.

From the village, you can also visit “Eze bord-de-mer” by taking the Friedrich-Nietzsche path (at the end of the “avenue du Jardin Exotique”), it appears that here, under the olives and pine-trees that Nietzsche composed the third part of his work “Thus Spoke Zarathustra”… this delightful walk takes about an hour… you’ll need more time to climb back up! You can taste dust on this path amid the burly mountain face and rustic greenery.

“I am a forest, and a night of dark trees: but he who is not afraid of my darkness, will find banks full of roses under my cypresses.” ― Friedrich Nietzsche, Thus Spoke Zarathustra

Drink@Château Eza

The former residence of the swedish prince is now a luxury boutique hotel at the summit of Village of Eze. The place exudes romanticism at it highest glory. This place is exorbitantly expensive. I had already read the reviews on trip advisor about its food so I was not too keen on trying out its food even though it is advertised as Michelin starred. But what I could definitely recommend is book a table in advance and grab your significant other on the hand and enjoy a drink for the most serene & tranquil moments. Drinks are the expensive side but hey at least you get something magic in return. No one can offer you a better sun-kissed horizon adorned with the mega-yatchs of the rich and the famous. You look down on the villas and yachts of Cap Ferrat and the crystal blue waters of the Bay of Eze–only one word for it: magnifique. Drinks are priced between 25 to 50 euros.

Before I left the place I payed a brief visit to the church Baroque church Notre-Dame de l’Assomption. It is quite beautiful and do light a candle to mother Mary a ritual I always follow when I visit the church, though I am not a catholic. You can get lost in its eternity but for people who have known me always vouch for the fact that I can find humour in the most serious situations (definitely not offending anyone).I went to write a few lines in the visitor’s book and started reading what other’s had written. I was pleasantly amused to find the messages quiet ironical. I wrapped up my day and started to explore another gem in the French Riveria.

“……………………Oh, let’s get rich and buy our parents homes in the south of France…………………………”

Please do drop me a comment if you need any additional information.Every photograph weaves a story around my experiences and the words are realtime accounts.Have a happy vacation! Life is certain better when you are travelling…………………………………………………………………………………..!!!!!