Turkey

After the pandemic, Turkey has been the very first country that I have visited with my childhood friends. The excitement was immense as the feeling of flying outside of my nest seemed very surreal after being home bound for almost two years. I am not exactly sure why we chose Turkey as the first place but at this point in time I can definitely say there is no place like Turkmenistan. I was asked by my dear friend Chits as to what was the highlight of your trip and throughout the trip I shifted my loyalties from one activity to another. But now that I have slid into my satin pyjamas and sinked into the comfort of my duvet, I am filled with a deep longing to go back to its people and its vibe. Turkey is a very complex country which has evolved through thousands layers of time shuffling hands between christianity and Islam. You get shades of an European country the moment you cross the Bosphorous river it is also an Asian country, no doubt it is a Middle Eastern country, a Balkan country, a Caucasian country, a neighbour to Africa, Black Sea country, Caspian Sea, all these…all coercing into one voice which is Turkey.

How to travel

Travelling from United Kingdom and even Asian countries, flight is the most recommended. I used my British Airways Avios to book my flight and it came down to less than £120 (this includes my return). BA also allows 23 kgs allowance for checkin and trust me you need this if you are visiting Turkey since it is a shopper’s paradise. I am sure there are cheaper flights than this but I wouldn’t recommend them as they would come with the hassle of baggage and cancellations. Use them only if you are a backpacker sorts and have no intention of shopping which in case of Turkey is a bit tricky imo.

When landing at the airport I was aware of the steep prices the taxis charge. I had a friend who had shuttle service arranged from her hotel but if I were travelling solo I would recommend the shuttle service which would charge you as little as 13 TRY (Turkish Lira). Around the town it is quite well connected with tram services and would recommend using them. Taxis drivers are prone to rash driving and also charge exorbitant rates. Note: Uber was illegal in Istanbul but an Istanbul court overturned the ban on Uber in 2021, drawing a mixed reaction from yellow taxi drivers who had long complained.

Visa

If you belong to a country like me which requires you to have a Visa for entering then you can apply for the e-visa from here (www.evisa.gov.tr).

Safety for female travellers

We went on a girls trip and I really don’t care what the world chart rankers think about safety due to its vicinity to war prone countries. It is gut instinct which I go with and to me it seemed as safe as London. We chose wise and booked well populated zones like Galata which is on the European side of Istanbul (also where the vibe is and it is not like old town) and we tread where it was advised with no adventurous expeditions and it turned out the best place to be after the pandemic. I went in my regular jeans and top wherever I could or a dress to most places. You should carry a scarf with you in case some religious mosques mandate you covering your head.

Places to stay

After adequate research I zeroed on Galata towers cause that is where the vibe is. Hotel or airbnb Is your choice but quite a cool collection with great instagrammable spots around where we stayed. Finding great places to eat is easy if you don’t want to venture out.

Must try Places to eat

For me food is a religion and you can only enjoy food if you are passionate about it. Throw in a great ambiance, great culture and a few glasses of wine and you have Harika. Some good company can be a good garnish but not a necessity. I have had some of the best meals solo.

Baylo: A great little bar, the staff were very nice and helpful and speak English.They have a small cocktail menu and I have to say the local rose wine was very good.The decor is smart and modern with a cosy feel and they play good music. Angora black wine well recommended. Budget: ££

Aheste: This came recommended by a friend and boy was I surprised it is set in an historic cistern in Pera, has some of the most exceptional dishes on it menu. The menu was inventive without being gimmicky, and you could try Turkish wine with their tasting menu, warm or cold mezze. It is top notch Gourmet in the heart of the bustle. Budget: ££

Rakofoli: This fireside restaurant has some of the best evening views and delectable kebabs. With views over the Galata Bridge and the ancient peninsula Rakofoli’s most beautiful spot is its terrace. From the terrace it feels like as if there is no distance between you and Istanbul’s most glorious landmarks illuminated at night. The staff is extremely kind and as a customer you should always reciprocate kindness. ££

Seven hills: Yes I am guilty of getting this instagram friendly restaurant on my list but it deserves its mention. The breakfast is a massive spread and I relished every morsel of it. The terrace restaurant located in the heart of Istanbul has a magical ambiance combined with the view of the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), Hagia Sophia, and the Sea of Marmara. Now you know why its a photographers delight and on my recommendation list. Budget: ££

Rose Papillon: Once you have taken enough photos of the Galatta Towers you need to stop here for the best replica of THE best Cheesecake which is served in the in town at La Viña restaurant in San Sebastián, Spain. The cheesecake, also known as the Donostia Cheesecake for its origins in the Basque Country (Donostia is the Basque name for San Sebastián, the capital city of Spain’s northern coastal province of Gipuzkoa), is now a major hit in Turkey. The ambiance is great and the staff would happily do a serve up for you if you want to shoot a reel. Budget: £

Lokanta 1741: I have debated its presence on my list but I have finally given this Michelin mention restaurant a chance. This beautiful contemporary restaurant with a romantic roof terrace is right next to Cağaloğlu Hamam, through the door on the right. It serves Turkish culinary classics, some dating back to 1741, with a modern twist. Budget: £££

Murver Restaurant: Another restaurant from Michelin guide, Smoked and grilled ingredients form the basis of the creations in which regional produce and innovative combinations make for a culinary adventure. This trendy rooftop restaurant also boasts a fabulous cocktail bar where you can soak up the vibe and let Istanbul reveal all its charms on the sublime terrace. Budget: £££

Khaveshi Turkish coffee: This is like the Starbucks of Turkey. Sitting here, with my second coffee, watching the world go by in the bustling market streets is fun. They have loads of desserts too to try. Budget: £

Siya Sofrası: I couldn’t go here but they say you should always leave a few for the next time as I wish to return to beautiful Istanbul. I read this article which made me bookmark this restuarant. It is in old city of Istanbul, you take a twenty-minute ferry ride to get to the Asian side of the Bosporus. Significantly low key and budget friendly and they mention it has some dishes which the Turkish grandmothers used to make. Budget: £

Places to Visit

I have never believed in a checkbox and all my suggestions are based on my instinct. On your first evening I would suggest a walk by any of the Piers of Istanbul. My recommendations for the Eminonu pier is the central commercial and transport hub of Istanbul’s most historic area. It’s a gateway to Sultanahmet area with so many attractions starting from the Spice bazaar in front of it, further up to Kapali carsii and then to iconic Istanbul’s sites like Topkapi and Hagia Sophia.The place is always packed with both locals and tourists. Following which taking a night cruise on the Bosphorous is a beautiful experience whether you are alone or with family. You can enjoy beautiful breeze in the evening and also enjoy the sights beaming in the evening glory.

A late evening stroll to the Galata towers is another strong recommendation. The streets are bustling with tourists and locals. Restaurants offering a wide range of cuisines to hawkers selling chestnut and corn. What I love is the range of evil eye goodies which are sold in almost every second shop on the streets. The place has some very affordable and attractive accommodation and hotels.

Starting your day with breakfast at one of the terrace restaurants is highly recommend and guzzling down Turkish coffee and then giving a grand swirl to the leftover grounded coffee will decide your future. How odd may it seems but after reading about the ancient art of Tasseography in this article here. Kahve fali (coffee reading) is a tradition from the Ottoman era probably in the 16th century. A tasseographers can only make predictions for an individual who drank the coffee. Queer as it may seem but my interest in the art of fortune- telling made me research more about this art.

I am not a history freak but sometimes the legacy of certain architecture cajoles you to surrender. Thats the kind of marvel Hagia Sophia is! In normal circumstances I would have glanced at it from the outside and click a few pictures and been off but when my friend suggested a guided tour, I had no clue I would be bowled by its beauty. It has had metamorphosed from a church for Constantinople to a museum and now a Mosque. It is still open to the public. We lucked out with our guide for that matter and also with every other guide that I met in Turkey. Inside it is a sublime sight lit with thousands of candles (electrical today) proudly showcasing the Byzantine mosaics and Islamic encryptions made from gold, silver, glass, terra cotta and colourful stones. For me personally this legendary structure is a classic example of Iconoclasm.

I know the most famous spice bazaar would be Grand bazaar but I am a sucker for quaint and there is a bylane by Haggia Sophia which has my heart. Again my friend’s recommendation. Not overtly crowded and pretty immaculate. Selling traditional Turkish dishware, hand made pottery, carpets and scarves. Prices were reasonable and bargain is an option. I don’t know its name or else I would have written it. Go find it 🙂

Balat has got its place on the map of Istanbul. Its colourful and hipster but has a vibrant history to its name. It was once inhabited by Jews, Christians and Muslims but with changing economic conditions it was sent into ruins until UNESCO stepped in and provided aid to restore its historical buildings. I was massively attracted to the frescos and paintings done by local artists and its bohemian cafes. The umbrella street is beautiful and yes it is famous among influencers but to my opinion beautiful places are meant to be celebrated.

This and many places in Istanbul are not about luxury establishments and grandeur. You will find many shades of locals chatting, kids cycling around, dump lying by the streets and a very down to earth vibe. Embrace it!!

Lasting Memory of Istanbul

My last night at Istanbul was spent in clicking some pictures of its crowded streets and right when I was about to enter I met “Kali” the black cat who had been haunting me for the last three days and this was the last night when I would see her. While glaring at her gleaming eyes I noticed a streak of light coming from the basement of my apartment and a slow hum of Jazz streaming through a tiny window. It was a hole-in-the-wall sort of a shop selling old books and records. Both my weakness and I had been brainstorming on ideas on getting something unique for my better half who is a 33RPM freak. When I climbed carefully down the windy steps into the shop I saw a huge pile of books covered in dust and two middle aged men and one woman enjoying a cigarette and some Turkish tea with baklava. The woman gave me a smile and continued chatting with the men. The men gave me a side glance and without attracting much attention I quickly shifted my interest to the pile of records. Just like any record shop in UK it had most of the known LPs from Bob Dylan to Louis Armstrong. While I was debating if I should pick Ella Fitzgerald I was pleasantly surprised to find a limited edition LP of Ravi Shankar and I asked the grinning shopkeeper to play it for me and who went on to talk about his travels around the world and how he managed to get this collection sorted which reflected his passion for music and travel. After a lengthy haggle I thought I had convinced him for 300 TRY while he insisted on 350 TRY. I went around at least 3 ATMS looking for hard cash so that I could have the record for myself. But I finally lost my patience when he refused my 300 TRY and I just sadly walked out sulking over his obstinate personality. What intrigued me was his knowledge on all things music and outside of it as we had conversed quite a bit when he kept playing the shortlisted records on my request.

Istanbul left a lasting impression with its old but new embracing Western intellectuality. Only to be proven wrong that it was intact not new but imminently old in this acquired knowledge. Back in the 1930s when the world was whirling from the World war I aftermath and immigration. Turkey also had its share of migrants from expelled Muslims from Europe to Russians alike. The came from well-educated backgrounds and became poets and even ministers. With that started Istanbul’s Jazz, nightlife and culture. Since then Istanbul has been reinvesting itself in ever so changing way. If you are looking for answers like me I leave you a good book to read called as the ‘Midnight at the Pera Palace,’ by Charles King.

“This is a book about how one of the world’s great cities moved out of tragedy to the creation of something fundamentally new – this Islamic Jazz Age that we in the West and many Turks have forgotten about,” says King.

With the recent blasts in Istanbul it is quite important to applaud Istanbul’s spirit and its fight against terrorism while it welcomes migrants from many war torn countries.